Billiards Muscles... Leave them at Home
Thursday, February 23
You've seen them, the muscle-bound creatures who hang around the local gym flexing, curling and as rigid as man can make himself.All that training and exercise is absolutely useless at the pool table.
Often, the 90-pound weakling can deliver a more pure stroke and is likely to have a much better break than the guy who kicked sand in his face.
Why? A loose muscle is a fast muscle.
When it comes to a massive break, scattering balls all over the north 40 and leaving the cue ball center table, I'll take speed with accuracy anytime over all the muscle that can be put behind a cue.
The speed of the cue through the center of the cue ball is what accounts for a good, ball scattering break shot.
Instead of weight lifting, concentrate your effort on drills that will speed up delivery of the cue.
Imagine for instance, instead of the greatest pool legend in the country, you are the country bumpkin who can deliver the fastest underarm, softball pitch.
You've been brought onto the city team because you have a fast arm. What caused it anyway?
Arm Whip--Here is where most pitchers improve their pitching speed...and it is also most often not mentioned. You can achieve a faster fastball by speeding up the arm speed during the final downswing before the release. This intentional “whipping” of the arm through the final one-third of the rotation will create a faster closing of the shoulder while the arm is still in its downward movement, creating a faster movement of the arm (and subsequently the ball) just before the release point, resulting in a much faster pitch.
How about applying that technique to a break shot.--You can achieve greater cue speed by speeding up the arm during the final downswing. We don't want you to put your forearm through the rail, but that kind of speed can really help your break shot.
Try this little drill. Place a yardstick on the long rail with the one-inch end over the center of the corner pocket. Set up a straight shot (cue ball alone) at the opposite end rail from the headstring. Set the cue ball on the headstring and see just how fast you are. The cue ball should hit the end rail, rebound to your side, hit the end rail again and come back you your end a second time. If you can muster up enough speed to get to the end rail again, set up the yardstick at that end of the table.
You are trying to determine how many inches out from the final rebound you can move the cue ball. This is the distance you want to record. Make 10 shots every day, record the highest distance. Track this for a couple of weeks.
Besides speed, you will learn accuracy counts greatly in hitting the center of the cue ball and keeping your stroke straight. Miss the straight return line and your cue ball will likely hit the side rail before it gets back to the end rail.
But The Break Isn't Everything...
Here are three things to remember:
· A tight grip limits cue speed.
· Let the weight of the cue do the work, not your muscles.
· Keep your stroke smooth, you'll gain better control, more power with less effort.
During most shots, your lower arm and wrist just hang limp from your upper arm. This means your arm and wrist hold the cue in no position if it is hanging limp. There is no muscle involved. Limp is limp.
This will allow the cue to go straight, if you add muscle, all that changes, and it is known as steering the cue. Most all of the time this is caused by a tight grip and using the wrong muscles.
Watch yourself in a mirror when the weight swings freely your wrist of your cue hand cocks back. The wrist always catches up at impact, if it's not forced. This means keep the wrist vertical (flat and straight) (naturally hanging) at impact.
That is what you're looking for. You can keep a more firm wrist, which is fine, just let the cue hang freely. Timing is near the same but it all varies a little. You need to learn to to feel the weight of your cue, after all the game is based on feel.
Pool Is Not Violent Motions. That kills a good stroke and more important, accuracy. It will become very accurate and powerful if you let it happen, rather than force a motion.
posted by Raphael @ 08:00,
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Simple Aiming Technique
Here's a technique for aiming that I've come up with. It's pretty simple. Consider the fact that a common billiard ball is 2 1/4 inches in diameter. That means that when the cue ball contacts the object ball, there is 2 1/4 inches from the center of one ball to the center of the other (that is, provided the cue ball is not larger than the other balls, as is sometimes the case on many bar tables, but I'm approximating here). Once you have determined the line of aim, simply shoot for a point along the line of aim that is about 1 inch behind the object ball.There is no substitute for practice of course. That is the best way to develop a good eye for shooting. But if you are having trouble with your aim, it's a good method of double checking. And it can be very useful on snooker tables, where aim can be made even more difficult by the larger size of the table and the smaller size of the balls.
posted by Raphael @ 07:53,
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8 Ball - The Game, The Rules
Tuesday, February 21
OBJECT OF THE GAMEEight-Ball is a call shot game played with a cue ball and 15 object balls, numbered 1 through 15. One player must pocket balls of the group numbered 1 through 7 (solid colors), while the other player has 9 through 15 (stripes). The player pocketing either group first, and then legally pocketing the 8-ball wins the game.
CALL SHOT
In Call Shot, obvious balls and pockets do not have to be indicated. It is the opponent’s right to ask which ball and pocket if he is unsure of the shot. Bank shots and combination shots are not considered obvious, and care should be taken in calling both the object ball and the intended pocket. When calling the shot, it is never necessary to indicate details such as the number of cushions, banks, kisses, caroms, etc. Any balls pocketed on a foul remain pocketed, regardless of whether they belong to the shooter or the opponent. The opening break is not a “called shot.” Any player performing a break shot in 8-Ball may continue to shoot so long as any object ball is legally pocketed on the break.
RACKING THE BALLS
See graphic beside.
The balls are racked in a triangle at the foot of the table with the 8-ball in the center of the triangle, the first ball of the rack on the foot spot, a stripe ball in one corner of the rack and a solid ball in the other corner.
ORDER OF BREAK
Winner of the lag has the option to break. The winner of each game breaks in the next. The following are common options that may be designated by tournament officials in advance:
(a) Players alternate break.
(b) Loser breaks.
(c) Player trailing in game count breaks the next game.
LEGAL BREAK SHOT
(Defined) To execute a legal break, the breaker (with the cue ball behind the head string) must either (1) pocket a ball, or (2) drive at least four numbered balls to the rail. When the breaker fails to make a legal break, it is a foul, and the incoming player has the option of (1) accepting the table in position and shooting, or (2) having the balls re-racked and having the option of shooting the opening break or allowing the offending player to re-break.
SCRATCH ON A LEGAL BREAK
If a player scratches on a legal break shot, (1) all balls pocketed remain pocketed (exception, the 8-ball: see rule 4.8), (2) it is a foul, (3) the table is open. Please Note: The incoming player has cue ball in hand behind the head string and may not shoot an object ball that is behind the head string, unless he first shoots the cue ball past the head string and causes the cue ball to come back behind the head string and hit the object ball.
OBJECT BALLS JUMPED OFF TABLE ON THE BREAK
If a player jumps an object ball off the table on the break shot, it is a foul and the incoming player has the option of (1) accepting the table in position and shooting, or (2) taking cue ball in hand behind the head string and shooting.
8-BALL POCKETED ON THE BREAK
If the 8-ball is pocketed on the break, breaker may ask for a re-rack or have the 8-ball spotted and continue shooting. If the breaker scratches while pocketing the 8-ball on the break, the incoming player has the option of a re-rack or having the 8-ball spotted and begin shooting with ball in hand behind the head string.
OPEN TABLE
(Defined) The table is "open" when the choice of groups (stripes or solids) has not yet been determined. When the table is open, it is legal to hit a solid first to make a stripe or vice-versa. Note: The table is always open immediately after the break shot. When the table is open, it is legal to hit any solid or stripe first in the process of pocketing the called stripe or solid. However, when the table is open and the 8-ball is the first ball contacted, it is a foul and no stripe or solid may be scored in favor of the shooter. The shooter loses his turn; the incoming player is awarded cue ball in hand; any balls pocketed remain pocketed; and the incoming player addresses the balls with the table still open. On an open table, all illegally pocketed balls remain pocketed.
CHOICE OF GROUP
The choice of stripes or solids is not determined on the break even if balls are made from only one or both groups, because the table is always open immediately after the break shot. The choice of group is determined only when a player legally pockets a called object ball after the break shot.
LEGAL SHOT
(Defined) On all shots (except on the break and when the table is open), the shooter must hit one of his group of balls first and (1) pocket a numbered ball, or (2) cause the cue ball or any numbered ball to contact a rail. Please Note: It is permissible for the shooter to bank the cue ball off a rail before contacting the object ball; however, after contact with the object ball, an object ball must be pocketed, or the cue ball or any numbered ball must contact a rail. Failure to meet these requirements is a foul.
“SAFETY” SHOT
For tactical reasons, a player may choose to pocket an obvious object ball and also discontinue a turn at the table by declaring “safety” in advance. A safety shot is defined as a legal shot. If the shooting player intends to play safe by pocketing an obvious object ball, then prior to the shot, the shooter must declare a “safety” to the opponent. It is the shooter’s responsibility to make the opponent aware of the intended safety shot. If this is not done, and one of the shooter’s object balls is pocketed, the shooter will be required to shoot again. Any ball pocketed on a safety shot remains pocketed.
SCORING
A player is entitled to continue shooting until failing to legally pocket a ball of his group. After a player has legally pocketed all of his group of balls, he shoots to pocket the 8-ball.
FOUL PENALTY
Opposing player gets cue ball in hand. This means that the player can place the cue ball anywhere on the table (does not have to be behind the headstring except on opening break). This rule prevents a player from making intentional fouls which would put an opponent at a disadvantage. With “cue ball in hand,” the player may use a hand or any part of a cue (including the tip) to position the cue ball. When placing the cue ball in position, any forward stroke motion contacting the cue ball will be a foul, if not a legal shot. (Also see Rule 3.39.)
COMBINATION SHOTS
Combination shots are allowed; however, the 8-ball can’t be used as a first ball in the combination unless it is the shooter’s only remaining legal object ball on the table. Otherwise, should such contact occur on the 8-ball, it is a foul.
ILLEGALLY POCKETED BALLS
An object ball is considered to be illegally pocketed when (1) that object ball is pocketed on the same shot a foul is committed, or (2) the called ball did not go in the designated pocket, or (3) a safety is called prior to the shot. Illegally pocketed balls remain pocketed and are scored in favor of the shooter controlling that specific group of balls, solids or stripes.
OBJECT BALLS JUMPED OFF THE TABLE
If any object ball is jumped off the table, it is a foul and loss of turn, unless it is the 8-ball, which is a loss of game. Any jumped object balls are not re-spotted.
JUMP AND MASSÉ SHOT FOUL
While “cue ball fouls only” is the rule of play when a match is not presided over by a referee, a player should be aware that it will be considered a cue ball foul if during an attempt to jump, curve or massé the cue ball over or around an impeding numbered ball that is not a legal object ball, the impeding ball moves (regardless of whether it was moved by a hand, cue stick follow-through or bridge).
PLAYING THE 8-BALL
When the 8-ball is the legal object ball, a scratch or foul is not loss of game if the 8-ball is not pocketed or jumped from the table. Incoming player has cue ball in hand. Note: A combination shot can never be used to legally pocket the 8-ball, except when the 8-ball is the first ball contacted in the shot sequence.
LOSS OF GAME
A player loses the game by committing any of the following infractions:
1. Fouls when pocketing the 8-ball (exception: see 8-Ball Pocketed On The Break).
2. Pockets the 8-ball on the same stroke as the last of his group of balls.
3. Jumps the 8-ball off the table at any time.
4. Pockets the 8-ball in a pocket other than the one designated.
5. Pockets the 8-ball when it is not the legal object ball.
Note: All infractions must be called before another shot is taken, or else it will be deemed that no infraction occurred.
STALEMATED GAME
If, after 3 consecutive turns at the table by each player (6 turns total), the referee judges that attempting to pocket or move an object ball will result in loss of game, the balls will be re-racked with the original breaker of the stalemated game breaking again. The stalemate rule may be applied regard-less of the number of balls on the table. Please Note: Three consecutive fouls by one player in 8-ball is not a loss of game.
posted by Raphael @ 12:47,
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Billiard Stratagies: How to Easily Make a Bank Shot
"At billiard, for controling bank shot, you must visualize trajectory of object ball; gage strenght of shot (avoid lateral effect) and choose perfect cut shot. "I'm always looking for a way to improve my game, and I found this great site on billiards that has an article on Bank Shots, with great pictures, take a look!
Article: Bank Shots
Article 2: Easy Bank Shots
posted by Raphael @ 12:41,
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Pool Table Moving
Tuesday, February 14
Depending on the manufacture and style of the pool table, can be difficult or damage the table, if attempted by the homeowner. To properly move a pool table, it should be disassembled, moved, assembled and re-leveled.When a pool table is installed it is made level to earth and each piece of slate is registered to its mate. If a pool table is moved without realignment, it will loose accurate playability and in some cases it will be damaged. The pool table is designed to support its weight and be stationary. Therefore only an experienced pool table technician should move and realign the table.
A great resource for pool table moving tools is at Happ, there you can find great tools to make moving your table easier. However, if your going to be doing a big move, say to a new home, it is highly recommended you find a Pool Table Moving company, compare, check prices and choose. Let the pros do thier job :)
posted by Raphael @ 07:22,
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Download Free Billiard Game!
Tuesday, February 7
I just can't get enough on billiards! On the weekends I get together with my buddies and a pack of cold beer and start shootin some pool. Then Monday comes and its back to the office... Zzzzz... So for all of you that work on a computer all day like I do, I want to share with you this awsome game I found online that you can download and its FREE! Best of all this pool game / Billiard game is so realistic! Its a trial version, but the download comes with the crack, any problems just ask :)Download: Free Billiard Game
posted by Raphael @ 08:55,
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Refelting Your Pool Table
Thursday, February 2
Can you do it yourself? What does it take to refelt a pool table? Until recently the world of pool retained it secrets and had been a mystery. Those who were good players or table mechanics kept their knowledge to themselves to protect their livelihood. The Information Technology era has made it profitable for players and table mechanics to share their knowledge and allow the average person to benefit from their knowledge.
So what should you look for if you want to save some money and undertake the task of recovering your own pool table? There are three factors that are going to make the task much easier and raise you level of success mainly:-
- The quality of materials being used
- The correct set of tools.
- Lastly is a good set of instructions.
So how do I know if I am getting good materials? Locally this is much easier than on the Internet, but even there, there are ways to identify a reputable dealer for your purchases. Here are a few things to consider.
First if the price seems low there will always be a reason. It may be old cloth, materials from odd lots or even overseas material that will not have quality controls found in the US. If you find a website that looks good and the prices seem reasonable. If they provide a contact method send them an email and ask a technical or service question. See what kind of response you get and how responsive they are. This will give you an idea how responsive they will be if you have a problem later when something goes wrong or you have another question.
Cloth manufacturers are pretty consistent in the prices they sell to wholesalers so if you find someone selling way below the average price beware! Finding good instructions may also take a little searching. Many sites taunt instructions but many turn out to be little more than a few penciled pictures and less than a page of how to cover the bed. What I recommend is detailed step by step instructions with actual pictures. Good instruction will almost assure success, but if you have additional questions look for a site that will provide email or phone support they are out there.
What about tools? Well most of what you need is readily available in the average home but there are some specialty tools that can make the job much easier:- Staple pullers, feather strip removers, specialty razors and pounding blocks. These sound simple but having them can make a job go so much smoother and reduce some mistakes that can happen when using an incorrect tool. Look for a recovering kit that contains these types of tools and your job just got easier.
I hope this helps in your search for those of you thinking of refelting your own billiard tables.
posted by Raphael @ 10:51,
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Murrey OUTDOOR 5000
The Murrey OUTDOOR 5000 table is incredible! This outdoor billiard features a heavy-duty main frame with criss-cross interlock for maximum stability. Genuine 3/4" thick one piece slate playfield diamond ground to a perfect level of within 1/10,000 inch. Also, Murrey Guarantees to stay level indoors or outdoors. The pool table also has a professional grade K-66 profile cushions, water resistant/mildew resistant Sunbrella® outdoor 100% acrylic fiber billiard fabric. Built in rail sights for bank shots. Adjustable leg levelers make it easy to level on any surface. Professional quality molded pockets. Sun powered solar panels re-charge night lights. And last but not least, the Murrey outdoor 500 has a Built -in storage area for accessories on the side of the pool table. This pool table is fantastic, and is a piece I hope to acquire in the future.
posted by Raphael @ 10:05,
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Pool Madness
Wednesday, February 1
I love to play pool, it is my favorite hobby and I love everything about it. This blog will talk about everything from pool stratagies to pool table reviews. Here you will be able to find information on things such as: pool table, billiard tables, cues, pool balls, billiard accesories, pool accesories, used pool tables, repair pool/billiard tables, pool stratagies, billiard games and more! Enjoy and feel free to coment or ask questions!
posted by Raphael @ 07:02,
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