Pool Cue Tip - How to Select a Cue Stick
Wednesday, March 8
It seems pool players are obsessed with the notion that, if they just had the right stick, they would shoot better. I certainly believe it, because I can not bring myself to accepting responsibility for my failure. I want to blame the cue stick every time I miss. So I search. I am looking for the perfect stick. I want a stick that knows what I want to do, and does it automatically. I want a stick that compensates for my stupidity and anxiety. I want a stick that I can take two of when I have a bad cold, or eat when I'm hungry. I want a stick I can have sex with; one that moans and tells me how good it was. I want a stick that lies to me. I have shot with sticks that range in price from $10.00 to $1,000.00. I win and lose a lot of tournaments, on big and small tables, in dingy bars and in high class billiard parlors. I am obsessed with the game, and I want to stay obsessed with it. I have invested more time on a pool table with a stick in my hand than most people have invested in their careers. I am not on the professional tour, because I am not good enough, and never will be, but not because of a stupid stick! Many of the tournaments were won with cheap, sticky house sticks. Once I am in stroke, I forget about the stick and focus on the balls. The balls don't seem to care, as long as I am in charge and not distracted. I do select a stick with good leather. Bad leather will distract me. A bad stick will not, once I have adjusted to it. (Within reason.) I will stand by my conviction that a stick is dead weight behind a piece of leather. There are, of course, extenuating factors, chief among them being shaft flex. But that consideration can be controlled, and even used by advanced shooters. SQUIRT The flexibility of a shaft matters, and becomes a serious factor when using english. The illustration at left should demonstrate the reason. (I have significantly exaggerated the bend in the shaft of the stick to help in visualizing the dynamics.) Notice that the intended path of the cue ball (a) is straight ahead, with right spin. Upon impact the stick bends (b) away from the ball. Of course, the stick wants to "snap back" straight again, which forces the cue ball to "squirt" left, opposite the direction of shaft flex. Using too much left english will cause the cue ball to squirt right. The amount of squirt is not noticeable to the eye, but is a serious threat to aiming. All shafts bend. It is a question of how much. An advanced player can use squirt by compensating for it when aiming. The squirt phenomenon happens to a lesser of greater degree, depending on the amount of flex (whip) in the cue shaft. Unfortunately, the much desired pro taper, which decreases the circumference of the shaft further up the shaft, increases the probability of squirt resulting from shaft flex. Since force also affects shaft flex, and weight is a factor in force, heavier sticks may exacerbate the problem. Again, the shooter can adjust to all of the above. HIT In my opinion, Robert Byrne is the most knowledgeable instructor in the game today, and he knows how to explain things in terms anyone can understand. I believe Robert Byrne coined the term "squirt". I don't know where the term "hit" came from, or even exactly what it means. I guess it refers to the instant that the tip comes into contact with the cue ball. I don't like the term, because it sounds violent, but I can't think of a better term. I hear and read a lot of debate regarding the stick's "hit". I have trouble with this. The player is responsible for the hit, not the stick. Even considering flex, weight, and other cue characteristics, the hit is controllable. Different controls may be required for different sticks, but it is the leather tip that contacts the cue ball, and where the leather meets the ball is controlled by the shooter. A flexible shaft may require a fuller hit to avoid squirt, for example. But one can not blame a stick with good leather for a bad hit. If the shooter puts too much spin on the ball, fails to chalk up, shoots too hard or soft, punches the shot, fails to follow through (ad infinitum) a bad hit can result. It isn't fair to compare the hit of two sticks, with different shaft characteristics or leather, by using the same contact point on the cue ball. Obviously the hit will be different. Every new stick requires that the shooter make adjustments. But changing sticks in the belief that the adjustments should not be necessary can get expensive, especially when our shooting techniques mature and evolve by nature. If you want a better hit, make adjustments, and hit it better. More shots are missed as the result of squirt than because of aim. Put a little less spin on the ball and watch your shot making percentage improve. Stop blaming the stick! An experienced player can tell by the stick's vibration whether or not the stick flexes too much. The sound of the "hit" is important too, but the leather is mostly responsible for the sound. I like to feel my hand on bare wood, so I will not shoot with a glove. Although it is a minor consideration, I can feel the vibrations of the stick better with a cue that does not have wrap on the butt. Unless the player has enough shooting experience with a variety of sticks, sound and vibration will not mean too much in stick selection. STICK SELECTION The way a stick feels is important. All players want a stick that feels right in terms of weight, balance, shaft characteristics and leather. If it takes a few more bucks to find one that feels good, by all means make the investment. But if it takes thousands of dollars to find a stick that feels good, there is a serious problem. Yes, the finish on a stick is important. But, keep in mind that the same materials that go into an expensive custom cue can be found in moderately priced models. Rock Maple is Rock Maple. The grain is important, and the makers of higher priced sticks are usually more selective. But not necessarily. Cue makers are in business to make money; an honorable pursuit that often corrupts. BEGINNER Don't spend a lot of money on something you don't know how to use skillfully. Select an inexpensive stick, with the help of a more experienced friend. Examine the stick carefully for flaws, including finish, straightness, butt wrap and inlays. I would not suggest the purchase of a $19.00 K-Mart stick, although a pro player can kick butt with one. (I saw Jim Rempe beat some fine players, and he was using a mop handle.) Investments by beginners of over $175.00 is probably too much. Under $50 is probably too little. INTERMEDIATE Resist the urge to buy a $1,000.00 stick believing it will dramatically improve your game. If you want a better quality stick, consider something in the $300.00 range. Just make sure you really like the feel of it. Try some shots with heavy spin and feel the tell-tale vibrations. Do not upgrade to a stick that will require drastic changes in your stroke, unless you want to change your stroke. ADVANCED Get whatever damn thing you want. You deserve it. CUSTOM CUES I would love to start a collection of expensive custom cues. Many are magnificent works of art. But, if I could afford one I wouldn't use it for shooting. Works of art should be displayed and preserved. You won't see many pro players using a $5,000.00 custom cue stick in competition. ME I currently shoot a lot with a $50.00, two piece Dufferin (Sneaky Pete). It has no designs or wrap on the butt. It does have a wood to wood joint that allows me to feel every subtle vibration. I put harder leather on it. I have loaned it to others (I know, I know) who fall in love with it, even though they have more expensive cues. I am not pushing Dufferin. I just happen to believe it is one of the finest sticks on the market for the money. I did get two Dufferins that gave me trouble, however. The shafts were not seasoned completely, and sap came to the surface. The merchant replaced them with no debate. This can happen with any stick, so it did not scare me away from Dufferin. I am considering the purchase of a Predator shaft for an Adam stick already own, although I would worry about the sections coming apart over time, especially if racks are broken with it. QUOTING GEORGE FELS George Fels, in the April issue of Billiards Digest Magazine, covered the issue of cue stick shafts and tips: "Only the first 10 inches or so of a cue have any real effect on how the cue ball is struck, yet virtually all of the money we pay is for the other four feet." Mr. Fels also pointed out that many high end custom cues are not made to be used: " ...we have recently witnessed an art show in Los Angeles in which cues were offered for sale at prices ranging up to a high living $55,000.00. Without having seen that wand, or knowing its creator or specs, I will venture that more concentration and effort have gone into its design than its tip. Yet, without appropriate regard for that weenie appendage - let's assume the worst and say it cost $25.00 - the other $54,975.00 spent for the rest of the cue would be utterly down the tubes, if the object d' art was indeed ever intended to hit a ball." Right on Mr. Fels. But, I know you would love to own that $55,000.00 wand as much as I would. In truth, like everything else in life, we use what we can afford. If I owned a Rolls Royce, I would keep it under wraps, and probably under guard. There are those who routinely drive them to the grocery store. If I could justify and afford the cost, I would most definitely shoot with a $2,000.00 stick. I have very strong convictions about the above cue stick issues, but I will always want pretty new sticks that I hope will improve my game. They never have, but serious practice and regular competition have done wonders.
posted by Raphael @ 07:01,
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Physics of Pool
If it was possible to talk the balls into the pocket, I would be seeded number one on the pro billiard tour. Unfortunately, talk is cheap, and nothing worth pursuing can be acquired cheaply. "Shut up and shoot" is an admonition, that should be carved in stone above every billiard parlor entrance.I am personally guilty of describing, in nauseating detail, every pivotal shot I miss, to anyone who can fog a mirror, and is lonely enough to fake interest. A glassy-eyed nod is good enough for me. I'll describe, with remarkable recall, every nuance of a shot, to a drunken goat herder. The fact that my victim speaks no english and is too drunk to lick his lips is irrelevant. In recompense, I try to be patient when the situation is reversed. I will nod interest in someone else's pool crimes, at least until I fall out of my chair. None of this has anything to do with the topic. However, as a lighthearted introduction to the heavy stuff, it might have a redeeming quality.
The topic here is pool and physics; or more accurately, pool is physics. No other game on earth is so vulnerable to the natural laws of physics, with the possible exception of sex. (Every story should have sex in it. That was my contribution.)
Pool is physics transcribed for poets and artists. At its best, it is Swan Lake. The player is the conductor, the cue stick his baton, and the balls are dancers on a stage of green felt. When the game is played skillfully, one is mindful of the harmony that exists between man and nature. When I shoot, one is mindful of famine, pestilence and (pay attention here) chaos. But, why not. The likelihood that I will fall victim to chaos is law, not luck.
It is a fact that, unless intelligently influenced otherwise, it is the nature of all things to fall into chaos. (I can't intelligently influence my thumb.) It is one of the laws of physics, and seems paradoxical. One would think that order, being the most effective way to assure success, should be nature's way. But it ain't so. It is nature's scheme to create problems that will force living things to think. Ultimate survival depends on the power of the mind; not swiftness of foot, sharpness of tooth or keenness of eye. If we don't have problems to solve, we create them. That explains why games are such a critical part of our lives. They provide us with brain food. Without problems to solve, man would regress to a stone age mentality. I'm halfway there now. I shoot pool like a Neanderthal with a brain tumor.
If you can believe that a tendency toward disorder is a law of physics, consider its implications to the game of pool. Have you ever noticed how difficult it is to run a rack of 8 ball? With each shot we appear to be "organizing" a victorious end. Yet, for some reason, the last few shots become increasingly difficult, and we often find ourselves in a "Murphy's Law" position on the money ball. It is not bad luck. It is law! Add to this, the brain's tendency to disorganize under stress, and the chaos is exacerbated. In order to play smart pool, we have to violate at least one natural law by applying others that are more easily controlled. (Stay with me. I might need help.)
Learning to overcome chaos is the unconscious goal of every pool player. Professional pool players, even if they don't know it, owe their success to this fact. They have learned, for example, that the easiest shot may not be the smartest shot. By removing the easiest balls from the table too early, we dutifully fall victim to chaos later. This does not mean we should take tough shots if missing is probable. It means we should manage the table in an effort to take advantage of our opponents mismanagement. When advised to "Manage the table", you are being wisely instructed to overcome chaos, as it affects your strategy, and to put your opponent into chaos, as it affects his or hers. Obvious, you say? Get a grip! If it were so obvious, table management would not be so underutilized.
So, how do we overcome the chaotic conditions that lead to defeat? First, don't think too much. Too much thinking is a sin, and it hurts between the eyes. Thinking a little bit is okay, if nobody knows you're doing it. Remember that chaos feeds on too much thinking, especially when attempted by pool players. Focus on the object ball. Slowly fine tune your aim. If there is any brain matter left consider, without thinking too much, where the cue ball is likely to end up. Unless you're an advanced player, be satisfied with a safe, general area, not a specific spot. Leave yourself an option. Don't try position that could leave you snookered and your opponent open. Above all, make all of these decisions, and those regarding speed and deflection, before you bend over to shoot. This will allow you to concentrate on the object ball. You will get better at this with experience, and maybe a few beers. O.K. I lied about the beer. Like driving, drinking and pool don't mix. As a matter of fact, neither does driving and shooting pool. (I've heard that alcohol and gasoline do mix. But it tastes terrible.)
There are other less daunting laws of nature (other than chaos) that should be appreciated, if not completely understood. Gravity, motion, velocity, friction, mass, deflection and others affect how pool balls respond to our efforts to control them. It isn't necessary to be a physicist to have a general knowledge of the nature of things. It does require faith. If we do the same thing every time, the same end will result (assuming the table is level and in good condition). If for example, you shoot the cue ball from the head string spot across the foot spot to the end rail using no spin or english, the ball will rebound directly back toward the tip of your stick. Not might. It will. It is the law. If you are cutting an object ball into a pocket, and the cue ball makes contact with no forward, reverse or side spin, it will deflect from the object ball at a 90 degree angle to the line between the object ball and the pocket. Not might. It will. It's the law.
Trick shooters use the laws of physics to the extreme. They simply set up shots that allow physics to function as free of human interference as possible. They know that if they do the same thing every time, the same results can be expected. In fact, trick shooters develop shots by backing into them. They watch the action of a ball when it is shot in a certain way, and invent a trick shot based on that action. The complexity of the shot is built, layer by layer, from back to front. Tournament players seldom see the exact same shot twice in their life. To a tournament player, physics is the foundation of their shooting skills. To the trick shooter, physics is the skill. Whoa! don't get me wrong! Many trick shooters are world champion players who started trick shooting simply to entertain. Massey and Rempe are examples. Both are world class pool players...period.
Back to the business of physics in pool.
Because the weight and mass of the cue ball and object ball are the same, when the cue ball "slides" into the object ball at no angle (0 degrees) and with no top, bottom or side spin, the cue ball will stop dead, regardless of velocity. Not might. It will. It is the law. 100% of the energy (weight, mass & velocity) of the cue ball is surrendered to the object ball, and there is no energy remaining to carry the cue ball further in any direction. The use of english and spin changes the result, but nonetheless, by the use of physics.
The friction of the cloth will put forward (never backward) roll on the balls. The leather cue tip is used to increase friction with the cue ball, which in turn provides control over the friction of the cloth. This is physics. Believe it. Trust it. Use it.
Many players feel using top or no english provides better control. Why? Because top spin works with the natural friction of the cloth and not against it. Advanced players know how to use conflicting forces (laws of physics) to move the cue ball in magical ways. A novice should work with the laws, at least until they have learned to understand, or at least trust them. Faith in the physics of the game will allow you to concentrate more on improving the human factor.
I will write more about the physics of pool later. My purpose here is to influence players to trust the laws, even if they don't fully understand them. Faith is important in any game. Confidence is nothing more than faith in your technical and mental control of the game. If faith can move mountains, pool is a piece of cake.
posted by Raphael @ 06:53,
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Billiard Art Work
Wednesday, March 1
I was browsing around the internet and found this site called Barbs Billiards Art, the site has some amazing Billiard art using computer technology for this kind of techno/modern billiard art. My favorite is the "Gun Shot" on the top left of this post.Site: Barb's Billiards Art
posted by Raphael @ 13:39,
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